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With just 300 visitors at any one time, Lord Howe Island offers sun, sea and solitude.
by Bianca Nogrady
GLIDING languidly through the crystal-blue water, the 2m-wide stingray seems to be enjoying the attention of all the snorkellers dangling motionless above it. As it moves across the coral-covered slope with the barest movement of its giant black wings, the ray ignores the small Galapagos sharks lurking on the sea floor and loops gently around the columns of tropical fish.
This scene of marine paradise is just one of the many natural attractions of Lord Howe Island. Located 700km off the coast of NSW, the island is World Heritage listed thanks to its unique plant, marine and bird life, including the endangered flightless woodhen. It is also the southern-most coral reef in the world, courtesy of a warm ocean current flowing down from the Great Barrier Reef, laden with marine organisms that flourish in Lord Howe’s shallow waters.
From the air, the image of Lord Howe Island conjures up childhood memories of Peter Pan’s Neverland. The 11km strip of land curls around an azure lagoon and is dominated by two imposing and sheer volcanic peaks — Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower — that stand guard at one end. Apart from the few houses and pristine white beaches, most of the island consists of natural forest and tropical palms.
Lord Howe locals are as laidback as any you’d find in a sleepy coastal town. Their easy charm and friendliness is disarming to those accustomed to the city rat-race, but after just two days we are waving and exchanging pleasantries with everyone as if we have lived on the island all our lives.
This relaxed atmosphere is in part due to restrictions on development and tourist numbers, which have thankfully prevented a Gold Coast-style takeover. No more than 300 tourists are permitted on the island at any one time, along with the 350 or so permanent residents, many of whom can trace their heritage back to the island’s first settlers.
Activities for visitors focus on the island’s natural wonders. Snorkelling and scuba diving reveal an extraordinary under-water world of colour and life, including sea turtles, a wealth of fish and small Galapagos sharks. Despite the island’s small size, there are plenty of walks to keep visitors occupied, exploring the beaches and island peaks where seabirds such as the elegant red-tailed tropic nest.
For those who want to work off the calories there are also the more challenging walks up Mt Lidgbird and Mt Gower. We struggle up Mt Lidgbird and are rewarded with fabulous views of the island, but skip the full-day guided trip up Mt Gower, the peak of which is often wreathed in cloud.
And as the day draws to a close, we round it off with cold beers on the beach watching the sun set over the lagoon.
Holidays don’t come any better.
FACTFILE
Getting there: Qantas operates several flights a day from Sydney and Brisbane. Cost is $800-$1000 return.
Where to stay: There are 17 lodges on the island, ranging from the luxurious, fully catered resorts to self-catering apartments. Prices range from less than $100 to $350 per person per night.
More information: www.lordhoweisland.info
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